Tuesday, December 16, 2014

The Clothing of the Aztecs

The clothing and style of Aztec held very large significance in the day to day lives of the people.  The vast majority of the people were commoners.  Their ranking in society was indicated in the clothing they wore.  Under laws the commoners wore only clothing made of maguey, yucca, or palm fiber.  They ornamented themselves on the nose and ears with piercings and Nocochtli (which is an earplug that opens a large space in the earlobe) made of bone, stone, shell, and wood.  The basic female garments consisted of the skirt (called Cueitl), which was wrapped around and fastened with a belt, and a tunic (called a Huipilli) which was like a sleeveless blouse that fell somewhere between the hips and the knees.  (Lower-class females wouldn't wear Huipilli, instead leaving their breasts uncovered.)
        
The male garments consisted of a loincloth (called Maxtlatl) and a garment draped over the shoulders called a Tilmatli.  Earning the right to wear a Maxtlatl was considered a rite of passage for teenage boys.  Boys under the age of twelve were not expected to wear the Maxtlatl, instead wearing a small cloak tied at the shoulder.  After the age of twelve however, boys were expected to wear the undergarment as it was the most important garment in the male wardrobe.  Being without a Maxtlatl was considered uncivilized.  The Tilmatli allowed an Aztec male to display wealth, status, or rank.  If the wearer was a commoner then the Tilmatli would be tied over the right shoulder, while someone of higher class would wear it so that the knot lay over the breasts.  The government had rigid laws on how Tilmatli could be worn.  Commoners could only wear the Tilmatli to their knees.  Only priests, noblemen, and rulers, could wear it to their ankles.





The richer, higher rank, or more powerful you were, the finer your garments, especially the Tilmatli, could be.  To the right is a picture of Nezahualpilli, ruler of Texcoco, as he is depicted in the Codex Ixtlilxochitl, wearing xiuhtilmatli (blue cape), maxtlatl, and cactli (sandals which were largely restricted to noble men, and so were a show of status.)  With status came the ability to distinguish themselves with added colors and design.



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